The Excitement of Print-on-Demand: A New Chapter in My Design Journey
For decades, my design process was deeply embedded in the traditional fashion and textile industry. Every piece I created—from all-over print (AOP) shirts to intricate woven jacquards—was designed from the ground up, often requiring extensive prototyping, fabric development, and manufacturing logistics. But the industry has evolved, and so has my approach.
Now, with the rise of print-on-demand (POD), I have an entirely new playground—one that is as exhilarating as it is sustainable. It allows me to revisit my extensive design archive (spanning from the 1980s to now), modernize classic works, and apply them in ways I never imagined before.
Why Print-on-Demand Is Exciting for Me
Unlike traditional manufacturing, where designs are printed in bulk and require costly setup fees, POD offers immediate production on a per-order basis. That means no waste, no excess inventory, and the flexibility to experiment with designs in real-time.
More importantly, it means I can re-scale, recolor, and re-purpose my artwork with ease. Many of my designs were originally created for menswear—engineered for specific garment shapes and intended for woven or knit fabric constructions. But now, I get to reimagine them for art objects, accessories, home decor, and more. A pattern that was once designed for a button-up shirt might now find its perfect home on a tapestry throw, a luggage shell, or even a jewelry box.
Harnessing Technology: My "Expert System" and Algorithmic Design
One of the most fulfilling aspects of this journey is getting to use my "expert system" custom software every day. This is a tool I developed long before AI became mainstream—built specifically to generate complex, algorithmic patterns. But unlike AI-generated designs that run independently, my software requires expert guidance. Every curve, scale, and color choice is carefully refined by me to ensure that each design carries my artistic vision.
My mathematician, Dana, has been instrumental in this process. He is hard at work rewriting old scripts that broke when Apple transitioned to newer operating systems, ensuring that my creative tools continue to function. Beyond that, he is developing brand-new tools that make my workflow more prolific and efficient—allowing me to create even more designs tailored for the specific constraints of new product formats.
In many ways, my software is a precursor to AI—an early example of how algorithmic patterns can be created with machine assistance but under the careful direction of an artist. It’s a fusion of technology and creativity, and it’s what allows me to generate designs at a level of complexity that few others can achieve.
A New Perspective on My Design Archive
Every morning, I wake up excited to try new designs on different products.Sometimes, I even dream about them! One of the unexpected joys of this new process is going back through my "unused designs" folders—patterns that I once set aside because they didn’t quite work for clothing. Now, I’m seeing them with fresh eyes, realizing that some of these designs are actually perfect for art objects rather than apparel.
This new approach also gives me a direct line of communication with my customers. If someone loves a luggage design and wants it on a phone case, I can do that. If they see a woven blanket pattern and would rather have it on a Fleece Sherpa blanket, I can make it happen. Even simple color requests—such as translating my "Sedona" colorway from a tea towel to a sock design—are possible in ways that never would have been feasible in a traditional production model.
The Future of My Print-on-Demand Work
While I know some of my longtime customers are hoping for AOP cotton t-shirts, woven shirts, and sweaters, the print-on-demand industry isn't quite ready to offer these at the quality level I demand. But as technology advances, I am keeping a close watch—ready to jump back into garment production as soon as the materials and methods meet my standards.
Until then, this new business model is sustainable, creative, and incredibly rewarding. Every product, whether it’s a puffer jacket, tapestry throw, or jewelry box, represents a chance to bring my decades of design experience into the modern era.
This is a new chapter in my career, and I’m embracing it with open arms. I hope my customers will, too.
Jhane
2 comments
I am one of those longtime fans of your work from the very early 1980s. I became a Menswear & Millinery Designer bc of you, but applied my training & skills in womynswear for over a decade in NYC. I still adore your sharp designer skills, but I cannot stand polyester exceot when it is used in 20% (or less) in fabrics to make cottons & woolen fabrics more carefree to clean, drape & play with. Now, I understand the reasoning behind your use of polyester (AOD) & look forward to seeing you in the design world again. You R still my favorite Revolutionary & I’m just thrilled for the future Jhane (JB) Design Collections. ✌🏽🌈🎊
Congratulations. Today I learned “AOP” means all-over print (and Association of Optometrists, American Opera Projects, Army of the Potomac, Advanced oxidation process, …)
I bought your new socks and “Desert Star” doormat. It’s nice to have more art in the world. Your shirts will always be very, very special.